Thursday, September 24, 2009

A curious case of the roach and water

I've mentioned in past blogs incidents with cockroaches. Well let me take this moment to update you on the most recent encounters.

A few nights ago the power went down. No not just my house but all houses in the area. After charting with my host family, I decided to take a shower- yes the infamous shower. Some of you may question my decision to tuhtu during a blackout but seriously it's no different than when we have power for two reasons: 1) the night light in the bathroom illuminates the toilet area only and 2) my showers are cold water only, which honestly is fine with me since it's 80 degrees everyday.

So I gather up my shower accessories and make my way into the bathroom. I'm all lathered up getting ready to rinse my face when I have an "itch" on my back. I reach around and realize the itch is moving and is "raised". I swipe at it and off flies a fucking cockroach. A roach on my back! In the nude on my back. Suds in my eyes I scream. I'm trying to blink the soap out while keeping an eye on the friggin' nasty ass roach, kids knocking on the bathroom door to see if I'm okay and the roach scurrying around my feet to safety.  It ran into the shower wall and fortunately didn't reappear...that night. The next morning I go to tuhtu...I creep in and swing the door wide open. Sure enough that bastard again makes way toward my feet before scurrying into the wall. Thank god. Oh but if that's not enough....I'm in the shower with one eye open just waiting for the nasty thing to come out when I look up and yes, a huge spider watching me. You people back home may think- ha just a spider. No! You know the bathroom tiles, they're what, 3x3" or so? Yes this marvelous creature expands beyond! Beyond! And when it moves up...all it's legs come together behind it with it's ginormous head/body leading the way and making it look ten times as large. That thing sat there and watched me the whole time- the whole time...who am I kidding, I finished washing my face and busted out of there.  Later that day he was still in the same place which by this point was just fine with me. At least I knew where he was. The next morning, mr ginormous spider was in the toilet...dead I would assume. I don't know though as I refused to flush him. I held my pee until school- an hour later.

On to the good things...this week as been filled with exciting events. Saturday I joined a group of volunteers and made our way to Keporhi Falls. I believe this is the largest waterfall on the island. The great part- it's about 5 minutes from my house!

The waterfall was spectacular! A few of the other volunteers and I immediately got in the water and waded around the huge rocks- water splashing on our faces. It was one of the best feelings I've had up to this point. It was breathtaking. So much that I sometimes forget that I'm in Pohnpei, Micronesia. It's moments like this that drill it home to me. I spent some quality time in the water but eventually made my way to a boulder. I climbed upon the wet rock and just looked around. Living in America, I think we tend to forget to just be. To take the time and watch the life around us. Me being here has made me more aware of my surroundings. Shit how could it not? This island is full of beautiful and sometimes obnoxious (nasty roaches and annoying ants) elements but I have to remember to just grasp the fact that this is one of the most exotic places in the world and deserves much appreciation. With that in mind I shot some pictures and tried out a few features on my camera.  I hope I captured the essence I was searching for and you will be able to at least get a remote understanding of what I'm attempting to portray.

Before I forget...photos. I sent my dad my SD card and he will be posting pictures on my flickr site: www.flickr.com/photos/theamberham

So check the site from time to time for any additions.

In addition to the water fall I also enjoyed my first snorkeling exhibition. I knew that I would love this recreational activity but didn't think I'd fall in love so quickly and without hesitation.

Peace Corps emphasizes the importance of water safety so they inadvertantly have to give us a chance to understand that we are surrounded by water and will most likely spend much time in it. As a result-we spend a full day snorkeling!

We arrived at The Pohnpeian Surf Club just outside Kolonia in the earmy morning and set sail (or motor in this case) for Lagnar Island (don't quote me on this). This island was used for the Japanese during WWII and served as a runway way. As of late, though not currently, it seves as a clam farm. Regardless we stopped here to do some training and get familiar with the water and reef. After a quick lunch we headed for a spot to dive along the reef. The moment we took off in the boat I will never forget.

You know that feeling you get when you realize that you're alive and free? That sensation rushed through my body. Just thinking about it gives me goosebumps. The water is crystal clear, the air blowing through my hair, and the jolting of the boat sent me somewhere else. I can't even contemplate the last time I had that emotional response. I don't intend to sound corny, but all this reaffirmed the fact that I'm here. I'm finally here. I'm in the damn Peace Corps...so many years of contemplation have finally come to fruition. Wow! What a mesmerizing experience.

The reef that we dove around contains a large population of manta rays. Unfortunatley there were only a few for our viewing pleasure. I actually got a decent picture of one...thanks to Mike who pointed it out to me! The coral was quite beautiful and the marine life rather lively. The only downfall- the excessive current. I was exhausted by the time I got back to the boat! After we all loaded up, our captain took us to our next destination...a lovely spot right off the reef where the waves were breaking...beautiful and nice sized waves. Just seeing them made me more aware of the fact that I must learn how to surf. Before I get sworn in I will be a certified scuba diver! Yippee! A returned volunteer who has lived in Micronesia since the 70's certifies PCV for a reduced rate, so within the next month, I'll be a diving novice!

Our 3 weeks of training in pohnpei is finally coming to an end. I'm very sad to see many of the volunteers departing and beginning the next phase of this experience. Damn Micronesia for being so spread out! So to all my peeps moving on- good luck and peace out!

I apologize foe the delay in posting but this week has been chaotic. I begin language training on Monday as well as some practicum experience over the next 6 weeks. So hopefully I'll be able to make it up the hill to post some messages here.

I'm going to Nahlap this weekend for an over night trip with the other Pohnpeian volunteers. Nahlap is a resort island decked out with beaches and water slides...I can't express how excited I am to get away, even if just for the night!

Until I get the energy to make it up the mountain...

Ham

Friday, September 18, 2009

Pohnpeians put the Fun in Fundraiser

I finally attended my first fundraiser in Micronesia...needless to say it was more than I expected.

After getting out of school, Kate (another volnunteer who was assigned to Pohnpei-an actual outer island) and I headed back to my house so that I could tuhtu before walking to her house. We reached her house around 6ish and ate a wonderful meal of tuna sashimi, rice, mixed veggies, and fresh ripe tomatoes. Around 7, Kate, her host mom, and I stopped by Emily's (a volunteer selected to serve on an outer island in Yap) house to pick her up. After a lovely conversation with she and her host family we set off for the fundraiser.

The festivities took place at a local house and instantly reminded me of a street party. Many of the locals as well as a few men wai were there drinking sakou and partaking in the raffle. My host family surprised me by showing up and I instantly found a spot next to them. I quickly found my money and bought 2 dollars worth of raffle tickets at 25 cents per ticket. Before I knew it the raffle was beginning...

Now let me bring you back to the Micronesian dog issue...they are everywhere and are considered property not pets.  This is due to the fact that they are guard dogs and a local food product. They are NOT pets so people don't play with or pet them. When they are stinky or bothersome they are "shooshed" away.

So I'm sitting there all excited that the raffle is about to begin when a dog ends up tangled under my feet. I try to shoosh it away and end up pushing it back with my feet when it erupts and ends up biting my ankel. So here I am in the middle of this place with a dog clamped onto my ankle while the woman is reading off the winning ticket. My host father shooshes the dog and it runs off whimpering. My host mom is on the other side looking over my shoulder reading off the ticket number. And guess what?! I'm the lucky winner! I stand up, do my little ditty dance, and everyone laughs at the men wai lady. My nono (mom) stands up and I suggest that she go pick out the prize. While she's gone getting what I believe is A prize another lady comes over with a sack of ramens and some local hot peppers. Awesome right? Oh no, it gets better! A man brings over a kerosene lantern and a huge cucumber looking vegetable. My nono brings a large sleeping mat and informs me that we also won some bananas. I'm happy as hell. All the other volunteers are extremely jealous and my baba (father) suggests that I buy more tickets since I'm having such great luck...so of course i do. Unfortunately I didn't win anymore. My baba leaves shortly thereafter with my winnings and eventually I tell the rest of the volunteers goodnight and head home with my nono.

When we return home I find out that not only did I win the lantern, cucmberish vegetable, sleeping mat, and hot peppers but also...(drum roll please) but not just a few bananas but about 5 ginormous bunches. I'm not talking American idea of bunches so let's say about 5 trees worthn of bananas with the huge flower still attached to each bunch. Not only that but also a huge yam, a 25 pound bag of coconuts used prarily for cooking or feeding pigs, and 3 banana trees! Apparently you just plant the already mature tree and boing-more bananas! It a fricking party!

My family was super stoked and presented me with a, okay several, bottles of sakou and a lel (beautiful) skirt. What can I say- they love me. Hehe!

We finished the evening passing the sakou around and chatting. My baba taught me how to count in Pohnpeian and my sister schooled me in a new cuss word...i'm not gonna tell you! Okay maybe later!

Have I mentioned my fondness for the collectivist society? The fundraiser is conducted to raise money for birthday parties. Families donate items which are raffled off so that all children can celebrate their birthdays accordingly. My winnings go directly to the family which is supporting me here in Micronesia. Honestly I think they have the right idea. Some may feel differently but if you were here- you just may change your thinking, if even for a second, you may see just why this group of people are happier than the majority of Americans. Life isn't about wealth, success in ones job, or personal achievement. It's about aligning your priorities- family and happiness. I'm sure I will have much to say on this topic as time goes on.

I will conclude witb this- Pohnpeians know how to get down and overall, it was a productive night with many happy endings. Oh the life of a PCV!

Oh my ankle- no wound- just a sign from the karma gods. No?

Bugs Nails and Hair...who would have thought of the commonalities?

I spoke with my sister Misty a few nights ago. She asked how I'm dealing with the bug situation. I was pretty much suspecting the worst possible scenario within this realm. However, it's not all that bad! Yes! I too was quite shocked- happily that is.  My first night here I was showering, mind you it was in the dark for the most part. I assume that the light in the bathroom doesn't work as there's a night light next to the sink that happens to be located behind the shower wall. So essentially I am showering in the dark. Anyway as I'm pouring cold water over my head I notice a "hole" in the wall. Nothing to worry about. After washing the suds from my eyes I realized that the hole is moving! Little to my surprise do I realize that it's a ginormous cockroach. Huge! It was at that moment that I asked myself- what in the hell am I doing here!? Why did I think this was a good idea? After a few intense moments of contemplation I simply said aloud...I'm showering with an effing cockroach and there's nothing I can do about it but deal and get over it. Get over it Amber cause this is my life for the next two years. It was a humbling moment and one that I will not forget.

My placement

I received word today regarding my placent for the next 2 years. I'll begin with what I wanted...

I began the selection process by looking through all the site folders. There were 36 places wanting a volunteer and only 30 volunteers to fill the selected sites. Apparently in past hears there were approximately double the spaces for the number of volunteers...honestly I can't imagine that many sites! I was quite pleased with the openings presented.

I wanted to be placed on either Palaou or Chuuk. And again I'll be honest why- both islands are closest to Japan and any chance I would have had, I'd take the next flight out to see Misty and Co.  Needless to say I didn't get either island.  Anyway, I was given the chance to give my top three choices so I did just that. The placement day was very nerve racking and when they called my name...well I was very apprehensive. Next they said my placement-Sekere elementary in Sekere,Pohnpei. I was disappointed. I knew not to get my heart set on any one place but the disappointment was inevitable. The best part- two of the women volunteers that I have gotten close to also were assigned Pohnpei. There are a total of 8 volunteers staying in Pohnpei.

On to the good stuff about my placement! First and foremost I get to stay with my current family for the next 7 weeks! I love love love this family and they are wonderful counterparts for learning the language and the culture. Also I have one up on mastering the language!

My future school is located in northern pohnpei about an hour from my current location which is called Madolenihmw (the w is silent). I'll be living in Sekere (the e sounds like a long I and you roll the r) which is located about 10 minutes via my 2 feet from Kolonia, the largest city in Pohnpei. So yes, I'll be near a city which has it's pluses including nightlife, clothes, and all types of food. More importantly, I'm within walking distance from one of the best places for swimming! Ah- surfing and snorkeling are also super close which is located in Palikir. Of course there is plenty of hiking areas throughout the island. I recently learned that snorkeling can be done for a mere 10 dollars which includes the boat fare! So I'm set for entertainment.

As for my school...there is a volunteer presently working there and he has accomplished much with great support from the community and principal. The principal is a woman- and is the first in the community to earn a Masters degree. She is a great contact and loves having volunteers. My co teacher is also a woman and I'll be working with her in her 5th grade classroom teaching all subjects. I also believe that I'll be assisting in the computer lab. The school is quite large with about 350 students and about half leaving the island for college, so efficacy is rather high. In addition due to my location I will have access to many city goverments, nonprofits, and local community groups. This will definitely help with any projects I want to begin/continue and will provide many resources.

So although i was a bit dissapointed in the beginning, I am now very excited. I have not only a supportive school but also an urban environment to access when I need it. Even better-Internet and a laundry mat! No mildew clothes for me! Haha!

I'm very excited to immerse myself fully in the language. I've already started working on parts but am definitely all about having a tutor/language instructor. I will remain in my current village until about November 6th. I have yet to learn who I'll be living with once I officially begin teaching so I will keep you posted.

As for upcoming activities...all PCV will be going to Kolonia for a much needed shopping excursion and out to the reef for diving. Also a group of us will be hanging out drinking sakou and enjoying a "fundraiser/birthday party" (more info on exactly what this entails), a trip to the Kepirohi Falls waterfall, and finally a weekend at Nahlap Island for camping...pretty awesome plans, eh?!

So now that you all know I'll be in Pohnpei- you best start planning a trip to visit! It may be expensive to get here but to play- amazingly cheap! Shit y'all 1 dollar for a taxi ride anywhere in the city and to my house/site 3 bucks! Can't beat that. Gitty up!

I had another cockroach incident...

Ham

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Always an interesting day

I recently did my laundry at a small laundromat-it has a machine that you have to fill with a hose. No problem right? However I didn't realize that when it drains, all the water comes pouring out of the back of the machine. So although my feet were covered in soapy water-at least I knew the clothes would be clean! The biggest worry regarding the clothes is that they 1)get clean and 2)don't smell like mildew. There's so much moisture here that it's  tough to get clothes completely dry.  I don't want to smell like mildew!

Training has been going well. The most exciting aspect thus far is selecting a placment. There are a few schools in Palou that I'm interested in as well as Kosrae (pronounced Koshrie). I'm really looking to do something within health educaton as well as teaching English. However Chuuk has a few potential schools that are looking for a volunteer with grant writing experience and health education so that may also be a good fit. Ultimatly it comes down to me giving my three preferences and the staff deciding where to place me.  Granted this may pose a disappointment but I have much faith in the staff as they have been doing this for many years. Wherever I go, I will do my best.

On to more exciting things! The beauty of this island! Pohnpei is gorgeous. Everything is so lush and green. It rains about 2-3 times per day, sometimes more or less. It's very hot and sticky but thankfully showering is always available. My school is located along the water...not the ocean but more of a lake/lagoon I suppose. Each day during class I look out over the cocunut trees and palms to view the beautiful pristine blue water. It is breathtaking.  My house is located along the main road that circles the entire island. My family has the store there and a bit behind the store is the house nestled in the jungle.  There are mountains, islands, and waterfalls throughout the island. Actually I  run to the top of the mountain to get an internet signal. I really don't mind though. It gives me a chance to exercise and meet the locals. The local waterfall(the name I can't remember) I hope to visit on Sunday after the cockfight and church...yup cockfight! Is it bad that I'm super stoked to see this go down?

There are about 30 volunteers here not including the 2 current volunteers serving the area.  So white or as the locals say "men wai" people are common and many locals speak English. There is one gentleman on the island who served as a PCV back in the 70's. He decided this should be his home and has really taken to the island. He has an actual ranking in the community and knows much about agriculture. He's a great resource for plant identification and can name almost every species of plants.

Learning the language has been difficult. I have this thought in the back of my head in that o don't want to focus too hard on learning the language if I'm leaving in 2 weeks. I do my best and I'm sure my family has learned to read my facial expressions especially the one that reads "I have no clue".  Regardless the area is gorgeous and overtakes any qualms or difficulties I experience.

One thing is for sure the animals here are plentiful!  In my yard- actually in all yards, along the roads, and nestled within the jungle live chicken, dogs, cats and roosters.  It is not uncommon for all animals to be frolicking amongst one another. It's amazing how I've just gotten used to it all so quickly. The first few days I woke at 3am to the roosters. Little did I know that they are up so early! Damn american history/fallacy saying that roosters are up when the sun rises. BS! Anyway I now sleep right through them. What does wake me up are the pigs! My family confines the pigs to a cage not too far down the hill from my bedroom window.  They get all riled up in the early hours. They drive me nuts...but it is food so I can't complain.

A few nights ago I spent time with my host sisters. We drank sakou and chewed beetle nut.  Beetle nut is a local fruit that grows on trees everywhere. You crack open the fruit with your teeth, sprinkle some lime powder and tobacco in it, close it, and wrap it in a chewing leaf. You stick it in the back of your mouth and bite down. The leaf turns your spit super red as well as your mouth needless to say it was pretty sweet! Immediately my ears felt warm and I got a bit dizzy. It's a stimulant and sends a rush to your head. The sakou counters the effects and before I knew it, I was ready for bed. It was great to hang with my sisters! They are very smart and speak english quite well. We had some great girl talks.

Well, I find out tomorrow where I will be placed for the next 2 years! I'm very excited! Can't wait to spread the word.

Talk soon...


Ham

Friday, September 11, 2009

Outside Kolonia, Pohnpei in Micronesia

Before I begin this post I want to warn you of many typos and a strange formatting issue. It's a learning experience!

Kasalehlia! This is "greetings" in pohnpeian.

I have officially began my preservice training in micronesia.  It has
been a wonderful start in this journey.  On Monday I met my host
family who I will be staying with until September 25 or 26.  They are
a beautiful family! In the house lives 2 older daughters one who is 19
and the other who is 21. In addition is baba and nano (mom and dad) as
well as 2 sons and my sister-in-law. Kelly and his wife have 4
children whose ages range from 10 months to 6 years. Ely Mae is 3
years old and she absolutely adores me- well let's be honest, I love
her just as much. The house is 3 bedrooms and a living space as well
as a bathroom. Altogether there are 12 of us living here. I have my
own room and often feel selfish taking up one room while everyone else
sleeps in the rest of the house. However I have to remind myslef that
pohnpei is not like America. Here sleeping with your family is the
norm and taking in guests means providing them with their space. The
Micronesians are all very kind and continually accept Americans
particularly peace corps volunteers. We live in a home that has
running water and a "water seal" toilet which ultimately means that it
will flush with the addition of a pitcher of water. Unlike many of my
counterparts I also have an indoor shower.  I have running water and
take a shower two times per day via a "bucket shower".  Although the
water is only cold, I have no qualms as the heat and humidity make
cold water a necessity.  Micronesians are very clean people and highly
suggest one duhtu (shower) each morning and night. I prefer to shower
before dinner as by the time I return home from school/training I am
stinky and ready for a shower!

My host family is wonderful! They feed me a lovely breakfast usually
eggs (a luxory) fruit (either watermelon or breadfruit) and a cup of
super sweet coffee. Before I know it it's time to get to school where
I sit in a hot classroom that is festering with multiple men wai
(white person) scents. Honestly I don't mind and have already become
accustomed to the various smells.  After school I walk home which is
actually only a ten minute walk.  The second day here I started
running/exercising. That day I invited my little brother (Kelly Jr or
as he is known Jun Jun and his neighbor friend Christopher) to run
with me.  Little did I know how much they would enjoy such an
activity!  The next few days when I would return home they would be
there waiting to go running.  I love it! Not only does it
keepeotivated but the children love it.

The past few nights I have spent te with my family and studying. After
my duhtu I have dinner. I am very fortunate to be with such a
wonderful famy! My diet has consisted of yams, fish, some spam, and
much rice. Never will I go hungry here! In addition I have enjoyed
many evenings of sakouh, a traditional drink on pohnpei that is made
by grinding taro root and then sifting it through a bladder type thing
(I'm lost for words here), running water through it, and finally
squeezing it into bottles.  There is a customary process to accepting
and drinking sakouh and it's affects are comparable to a mild
sedative.  Needless to say, I sleep like a baby after a night of
ingesting sakouh!

Again I must mention the hospitality of my family. At the te of my
meeting th- I was presented a headress and a necklace. After my
arrival, my mother gave me a beautiful skirt. Each day since she has
greeted me in the morning with a new skirt. They are all locally made
and are colorful with various sequins. All the women wear the skirts
and it's quite the sight. Although I've only been here for less than
one week, I already feel at home. I wonder if coming back to the
states is even an option. A collectivist society is such an unreal and
unimaginable state to be in. I can't wait to really learn the language
and embrace the culture. I feel so fortunate to be in the place.

Just to let you all know- I will find out my permanent placent on
wednesday. I'm looking at a few other islands including Palau, chuuk,
and kosrae. They all have schools where I think I will work well. I
hope to let you know as soon as I get the opportunity.

My future blogs will most likely encompass the various themes- lack of
AC, Thousand Island dressing (I couldn't believe it either Misty!),
Mosquitos/bugs/cockroaches, beetle nut,  the language and many laughs
attempting the language, cock fights, church, and the absolute beauty
of this island.

I hope to hear from you all. Please be aware that connection is quite
limited and my email is tough to access. I actually have an easier
time getting on Facebook...weird I know.

For those concerned or even a bit hesitant- I'm happy as can be and
loving every minute thus far. I know it will get tough but I have the
support of all of you!

My love to all.

Thursday, September 3, 2009

A final word

I made it safely to LA today. Orientation went very well and I feel very excited and anxious to get the ball rolling.

All the other volunteers are amazing and itsqu
quite relieving to be surrounded by others who are also intje same place as myself. It's a very long road ahead but the quicker I get to the islands the easier this entire transformation will be. I'm really tired so will cut this short.

Thank you to everyone who made this possible and for the wonderful times before I left. I'll see you all soon!

I love you!